Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Spaces
Every 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm pierces the almost continuous road noise. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds form.
This is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants heavy with plump purplish grapes on a sprawling allotment situated between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just above Bristol downtown.
"I've seen individuals concealing illegal substances or other items in those bushes," states the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your vines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He's pulled together a loose collective of growers who produce vintage from four discreet city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and allotments across the city. It is too clandestine to have an formal title yet, but the group's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Wine Gardens Around the World
So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming world atlas, which includes better-known urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of the French capital's historic artistic district area and over three thousand vines with views of and within Turin. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the vanguard of a movement reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them all over the globe, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards assist cities stay greener and ecologically varied. These spaces preserve land from development by creating long-term, productive farming plots within urban environments," says the association's president.
Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a result of the earth the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who care for the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the charm, local spirit, environment and heritage of a urban center," adds the president.
Unknown Eastern European Variety
Back in Bristol, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the vines he grew from a cutting left in his garden by a Polish family. Should the precipitation arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to feast again. "Here we have the mystery Polish variety," he comments, as he removes damaged and mouldy berries from the shimmering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Soviets."
Collective Activities Across the City
The other members of the collective are additionally taking advantage of bright periods between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of the city's glistening waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from about fifty plants. "I love the smell of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she says, pausing with a basket of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the car windows on holiday."
Grant, fifty-two, who has devoted more than two decades working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her family in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to look after the grapevines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has previously survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can continue producing from the soil."
Sloping Gardens and Natural Production
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated over 150 plants perched on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, Scofield, 60, is picking clusters of deep violet dark berries from lines of plants arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her child, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for more than seven pounds a serving in the increasing quantity of establishments specialising in low-processing wines. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can actually create good, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of making vintage."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, the various wild yeasts are released from the surfaces and enter the juice," says Scofield, partially submerged in a container of tiny stems, seeds and red liquid. "That's how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to kill the wild yeast and subsequently add a lab-grown yeast."
Difficult Conditions and Creative Solutions
In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who motivated Scofield to plant her grapevines, has assembled his companions to pick white wine varieties from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on annual sporting trips to France. However it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce Burgundian wines in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable local weather is not the sole challenge encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has been compelled to install a barrier on